EREN Forum: Lookin’ for Parts in All the Right Places (Editors Note: If you haven’t been on the Electrical Rebuilders Exchange Network—or haven’t visited it lately—you’re missing out on some of the best information sharing in the industry. New members and the old faithful have made the EREN “Forum” the place to go with rebuilding questions, parts sourcing needs, and all sorts of technical info. Following is a sample of what went on in February.) POST: Does anyone know where I can get parts for Roll Rite tarp motors? I am specifically looking for the brass gear in the gear box. REPLY: What are the dimensions of the gear box? I may have the brass gear if we are talking the same series. POST: Hi all. I’m looking for parts for Lester no. 6669 Ford no. 1C24 11000 AA 2001-02 E and F series trucks w/7.3L diesel engine. Any information will be a big help. Thanks in advance. REPLY: ’01 to ’02 Ford truck w/7.3 L diesel uses a Lester no. 6669/1C3U-11000-AA. I may have some components but no drives. Also, I may have some NTOs and cores. Please advise if I can help. REPLY: Another thought, if you are having problems locating parts for late Ford and Delphi alternators, I may also be able to help. Especially 2003, since both makers had running changes. I look forward to working with you. POST: I am working on a 2000 Chevrolet 6.5L 28MT. Customer brought in because it kept running once in a while. Rebuilt starter. Solenoid was burnt, new drive WAI no. 54-8411, put starter on and worked fine 20 times. Next morning customer picked up vehi- cle, just clicked three times then started good next 10 times. You could hear sole- noid kick in but would not crank. Customer was in hurry and said he will try out to see what happens. Did not get chance to check volt at S terminal. Any suggestions? Dealer has put on two Delco remans in last three years. REPLY: Try load testing the batteries individually, then load test the cables to the starter. If all of these check good check your solenoid “S” current in the crank mode under load. If voltage drops below 9.5v install a “Ford ” style starter relay solenoid—diode protected to increase voltage to S terminal. We use the 12v continuous duty “Ford” style relays. They only need .25 to .5 amps to operate. I am pretty sure the diode pro- tected models are not required. Ford requires them to protect the computers from voltage spikes. POST: Hello everyone. Does anyone out there have a DE housing for a 3249 early Chrysler starter? This is the indus- trial two-bolt version that is similar to the three-bolt starter used on many Dodge trucks and buses in the 60s. I have a customer with an old Clarklift who is looking for a spare. I could use a DE housing or a whole core. If nobody has one they wish to sell, I’ll call Barney on Monday. Thanks and have a great weekend! REPLY: I have a casting and the number on it is G 1889477. REPLY: The 3249 has one threaded bolt hole. The 3252 has two mounting holes that are not threaded. The 3252 was used on Ind and Dodge truck engines. Anyway we have both. POST: I am looking for a drive end housing for an old Chrysler (actually Prestolite) no. 2095496. Also two hole, neither threaded. Fits 1969 Chrysler 318 marine engine. Also for a spare. Thank you in advance. REPLY: The 2095496 is a 5153 Presolite starter and uses the same hous- ing as a 5222. The housing is not at the same position and the starter has switch mounting hole drilled in it. POST: That Chrysler number could be 2095456, Prestolite numbers MDT 7001, 7010, 7021, 7022. Thanks again. POST: Looking for starter core no. 1107703 or armature no. 2298-12 volt. This is an outboard drive starter PIC no. 140-9965 (old book only). Fits cockshut tractor with continental engine. Tried Barney Kaplan Surplus and Obsolete Parts to no avail. Can anyone help? REPLY: Is this a two hole mount with a switch on it? I show that it fits a Hercules. We are checking for a core and/or armature. POST: Looking for a replacement starter for a Wudia no. QD-1322 Al .OKW direct drive starter. This is off a power plant at an Amish sawmill. This one is a wipe out so we are looking for a complete unit. REPLY: Can you give a description of starter and/or engine data? We might be able to help. POST: Has anyone installed a Mitsubishi or N/D starter in place of the Visteon? Will it fit? Does it work well? Any help would be great. REPLY: Did you call ACE in Charlotte today? They said some call just came through about this. POST: It wasn’t me, but this shows what a widespread problem this is going to be. REPLY: Jim Thomas at Smith Auto Electric in Yakima, Wa. has done this conversion many times. We discussed it on the chatroom last week. Jim can give you the correct Denso number. REPLY: We replace all Visteon starters with Denso—and they work great! You must use a spacer though, to make it work. Call me if you need any help. REPLY: Could you post more specific info on the unit you use, the spacer you use, etc., as this would be good info for all
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